Outdoors
Lungomare Caracciolo at sunset
Three kilometres of pedestrianised seafront between Castel dell'Ovo and Mergellina. Walk it at 18:00 in May.
Stop one — Castel dell'Ovo
Start at Santa Lucia. The 12th-century Norman castle on its tidal islet is free to enter (closes 19:00 in summer). Walk up to the parapets for the postcard angle of Vesuvio rising behind the city.
Down at the Borgo Marinari, the seafood restaurants on the harbour are good but pricey; locals eat the same plates at Pignasecca for half the money.
Stop two — Mergellina
Walk west. By the time you reach Mergellina the light is gold, the boats are coming in, and Posillipo cliffs are silhouetted against the sky. Stop at Chalet Ciro for the cornetto with chantilly cream — a Naples bedtime tradition.
From here the Funicolare Mergellina takes you up to Posillipo for the second-act view if you have an hour to spare.
Where to stay
Our homes in Naples
The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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