Food
The pizza argument: Tribunali, Spagnoli, Forcella
Three streets, three pizza schools, one short opinion on where to actually eat.
Via dei Tribunali
Tribunali is the tourist axis but the pizza is genuinely excellent. Sorbillo at number 32 is rightly famous; expect a 45-minute wait at peak. Across the street, Di Matteo is the no-bookings, faster sibling — Bill Clinton ate there in 1994 and the photos are still on the wall.
If both are heaving, walk fifty metres east to Pizzeria Vesi. Less hype, same quality dough, half the queue.
Spagnoli e Forcella
In the Quartieri Spagnoli, find Concettina ai Tre Santi — Ciro Oliva's lab kitchen. Reservation required, modern presentation, and a 'percorso' tasting that earns the hype.
Forcella is the old quarter: L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele is exactly what you expect (margherita, marinara, that's it). Don't wait two hours for the table — get it to go and walk down to the Duomo to eat it.
Where to stay
Our homes in Naples
The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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