Culture
Vietri sul Mare — where the coast's ceramics begin
The first village west of Salerno is the centre of a 700-year tradition. Buy from the makers, not the souvenir shops.
Solimene and the small workshops
Ceramica Artistica Solimene is the famous one — Paolo Soreli designed the green-and-white striped factory building in 1955. Take the free tour and watch ten ceramists hand-paint plates.
Smaller and arguably better: Pinto Vietri (since 1860) and Ceramiche Pollio in the old town. Prices half the seafront shops, same quality.
Where to stay
Our homes in Salerno
The often-overlooked Amalfi gateway — a real Italian seafront city with the medieval Scuola Medica, an arabesque cathedral, and the best ferry hub south of Naples.
Keep reading
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You eat your way through Naples or you don't really visit it. Five stops, three hours, two pockets full of paper cones.