Food
Five Neapolitan pastries you have to try
Sfogliatella, babà, struffoli, pastiera, fiocco di neve — and where the best ones are.
The classics
Sfogliatella riccia at Scaturchio (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) — crisp 30-layer dough, lemon ricotta, served warm. The 'frolla' version is shortcrust pastry instead; less drama, more comfort.
Babà at Pintauro on Via Toledo — rum-soaked yeast cake, served on a paper doily, eat in three bites. The shop has been open since 1785.
The seasonal ones
Pastiera at Easter — a low, dense pie of ricotta, cooked wheat, candied citron, and orange-flower water. Mary of Aragon's favourite. Pasticceria Poppella in the Sanità makes the best in the city.
Struffoli at Christmas — honey-glazed fried dough balls scattered with candied fruit. Eat them with your hands; using a fork is suspicious.
Where to stay
Our homes in Naples
The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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