Food
Pastiera at Easter — Naples' one true cake
Wheat, ricotta, orange-flower water, candied citron — baked the Thursday before, eaten cold on Sunday.
Where to buy a good one
Poppella in the Sanità, Scaturchio in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, Mennella in Vomero. Same week, three different ratios of wheat to ricotta — try all three if you can.
Order one to take home: pastiera lasts ten days at room temperature and gets better after three.
Where to stay
Our homes in Naples
The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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