Food
The fish market at Porta Nolana, by 7am
Naples' last surviving wholesale fish market is loud, fast, and entirely uninterested in tourists. Go anyway.
Etiquette and what to buy
The stallholders speak fast and won't slow down — point, ask 'quanto?', pay. A kilo of anchovies for €4, a sea bass for €18, a bag of vongole for €10. Some stalls clean and fillet on request.
If you're not cooking, just take photos and move on. Don't haggle aggressively — these are wholesale prices already.
Where to stay
Our homes in Naples
The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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