Cities
Capri — the version most visitors miss
Stay one night. The island empties at 18:30 when the day-tripper ferries leave.
Mid-afternoon survival
Between 11:00 and 17:00 the Piazzetta is unwalkable. Use that window to do the things day-trippers don't: walk Via Tragara out to the Faraglioni belvedere, swim at Marina Piccola's Da Luigi club, eat lunch at Le Grottelle (above the Arco Naturale, 30-minute walk).
Come back to town at 18:00. By 19:00 the Piazzetta is yours, the boutiques close, and the wedding-photoshoot crowd has left.
Anacapri at dawn
Take the first chairlift up Monte Solaro at 9:30 — twelve minutes, one of the world's best small-scale rides. The view at the top is the whole bay of Naples, the Apennines behind, Vesuvio centre-frame.
Walk down to Villa San Michele (Axel Munthe's house, free under 18, €11 otherwise) and have lunch at La Rondinella on the piazza.
Where to stay
Our homes in Capri
The legendary Tiberian island — Faraglioni sea stacks, the Blue Grotto, and a Piazzetta where the day's gossip has stayed the same since the 1950s.
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