Culture
Christmas in Naples — a city in costume
From the first week of December to the Epiphany, San Gregorio Armeno overflows and every balcony has a presepio.

What's on
The Christmas markets in Piazza Plebiscito and the centro storico open on December 1st. San Gregorio Armeno is unwalkable on weekends — go on a weekday morning. The presepe vivente in Sant'Antonio Abate (a living Nativity scene) runs from December 23rd.
On New Year's Eve the city throws an open-air concert in Piazza del Plebiscito and fireworks happen everywhere at midnight, including from people's balconies. Stay inside between 23:45 and 00:30 if you're not used to it.
Epiphany — the real ending
January 6th is the Befana. Children leave their socks out the night before; the Befana, an old woman on a broomstick, fills them with sweets (or coal). It's the official end of the holidays — and the morning everyone takes their tree down in unison.
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The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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