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Travel guide
Itineraries, off-season notes, food, festivals — kept current by our team through the year.
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What's newProcida launches its first-ever jazz festival from 10 to 13 September 2026, with 12 concerts and over 50 artists across five spots on the island. Here's the day-by-day programme, the venues, and how to reach Procida for it.
What's newBufala Fest returns to Naples' Piazza Municipio from 2 to 6 September 2026 for its tenth edition, with free entry to the food village and paid tasting menus from €16. Here's what's included, how the shuttle works, and how to plan a visit around Naples' biggest buffalo-mozzarella festival.
What's newNaples' ferry links to Ischia and Procida shifted this week after Pozzuoli banned heavy trucks from its port-area streets as part of the city's bradisismo safety measures. Here's exactly what changed for passengers and drivers booking a crossing to either island through mid-September 2026.
What's newNaples hosts its stop of the Jova Summer Party on 5 September 2026, at the Ippodromo di Agnano — a full afternoon-into-night show with Enzo Avitabile, Antonia, and a surprise guest joining Jovanotti. Here's the date, ticket prices, and how to reach the venue.
What's newNaples' Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro is showing "Il colore di Mimmo Jodice," an exhibition of more than 40 color photographs by the photographer who died in October 2025 — a striking counterpoint to the black-and-white work he was known for worldwide. Running through 10 January 2027, it's a rare reason to linger inside the Duomo's treasure rooms beyond the usual quick visit.
What's newCapri's Capridrama Opera Festival returns for its second edition from 19 August to 11 September 2026, staging opera in the island's landmark villas, the Certosa di San Giacomo, and — for one night — aboard a boat at sea. Here's the lineup, including the closing performances at Villa San Michele, and how to plan around it.
What's newNaples now has its first-ever two-Michelin-star restaurant: George Restaurant at the Grand Hotel Parker's, where chef Domenico Candela's second star arrived with the MICHELIN Guide Italia 2026. The same edition gave Alain Ducasse's restaurant inside Hotel Romeo its first star — here's what both mean for a dinner reservation in Naples this autumn.
What's newVico Equense, the clifftop town on the Sorrento Peninsula famous for pizza a metro, hosts the ninth edition of Pizza a Vico from 15 to 17 September 2026. Here's what's on, why the town claims the metre-long pizza, and how to reach it by Circumvesuviana train from Naples or Sorrento.
What's newAnacapri's Festival del Paesaggio returns for its 10th edition from 6 September to 3 November 2026, filling Villa San Michele's garden with installations by eight international artists. Here's who's showing, what's new this year, and how to fit it into a Capri trip this autumn.
What's newNaples has tightened the rules on late-night drinking around Piazza Bellini, Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, and the Baretti di Chiaia, with a takeaway-alcohol ban after 22:30 and fixed closing times. Here's what changed, why, and what it means if you're planning an evening out in the historic centre.
What's newNaples' Madre museum is hosting "Essere è tessere," a retrospective of Sardinian artist Maria Lai running through 21 September 2026. Here's what's on show, the hours and ticket price, and why it's worth fitting in before it closes.
What's newNaples Capodichino airport will close for around three weeks in November 2026 for runway resurfacing, with Salerno's airport taking over as the main alternative. Here's exactly when the closure runs and how to plan around it if you're flying into Naples or the Amalfi Coast that month.
What's newTwo-Michelin-star chef Giuseppe Iannotti has opened 177Toledo, a fine-dining restaurant on the top floor of the Gallerie d'Italia museum in central Naples. Here's the address, the tasting-menu prices, and how to book a table on the terrace overlooking the Certosa di San Martino.
What's newCapri's photography festival, Viaggi e Miraggi, returns for its 18th edition from 30 August to 11 October 2026 at the Certosa di San Giacomo, with a new work by Paolo Ventura marking the Blue Grotto's bicentennial. Here's what's on show, how it differs from the separate Blue Grotto anniversary exhibition at the same venue, and how to plan a visit.
What's newPeppe Di Napoli, the fishmonger who became a household name after Isola dei Famosi, opened Peppe Di Napoli Gold, a seafood restaurant next to his shop in Pianura, on 24 July 2026. Here's the fixed menu and price, what the space looks like, and whether it's worth the trip out from central Naples.
What's newShepard Fairey — the artist behind the Obama "Hope" poster and the OBEY Giant sticker campaign — has his first Naples exhibition running at the Gallerie d'Italia on Via Toledo through 6 September 2026. Here's what's on show, the hours and ticket price, and why it's worth fitting in before it closes.
What's newOpen House Napoli returns for its eighth edition on 2–4 October 2026, opening around 140 buildings across Naples — private residences, historic palazzi, architecture studios — free and without a guided-tour price tag. Here's what the festival is, how to plan a visit, and where to find the building list once it's released.
What's newNaples' Funicolare di Montesanto, the quickest link from the Pignasecca market and Cumana station up to Vomero, closed on 15 May 2026 for a nine-month statutory overhaul and won't reopen before early 2027. Here's the replacement shuttle bus, its schedule and fare, and the practical alternatives for reaching Vomero in the meantime.
What's newGiungano, a hilltop village behind the Paestum temples, marks the tenth edition of the Festa del Fico Bianco del Cilento from 20 to 24 August 2026. Five free-entry evenings of tastings built around the Cilento white fig DOP, in the hamlet that grows roughly 80% of the region's crop.
What's newChef Gennaro Esposito is bringing his two-Michelin-star Torre del Saracino from Vico Equense to Sorrento, opening inside the historic Bellevue Syrene hotel on 17 September 2026. Here's the new address, what happens to the original restaurant, and whether the stars move with it.
What's newNaples' legendary Antica Pizzeria Da Michele has opened a second, reservable location in Forcella, a two-minute walk from the original queue-only pizzeria. Here's the exact corner, how to book by WhatsApp, what's changed on the menu, and the pizza museum that opened next door.
What's newA strong earthquake and an ongoing swarm at Campi Flegrei, just west of Naples, have closed train lines through Pozzuoli and prompted evacuations — but central Naples, Vesuvius, Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast and Capri sit outside the affected zone. Here's the current status of trains, ferries and archaeological sites, and what it means for a trip in the next few months.
What's newPlanning to drive from Naples to Sorrento this summer? Anas has paused most SS145 Sorrentina roadworks from 1 August through mid-September 2026, so the only bottleneck left on the route is a single alternating one-way stretch near Vico Equense.
What's newThe Neapolis Marathon runs through Naples on Sunday 18 October 2026, a FIDAL-certified 42.195 km race starting and finishing at Piazza del Plebiscito. Here's the route, the timing, and which parts of the centre and seafront to route around that Sunday.
What's newNaples hosts the opening match of the men's EuroVolley 2026 championship on 10 September, with a temporary arena built directly inside Piazza del Plebiscito for Italy against Sweden. Here's what the square looks like for the occasion, and what it means for anyone visiting Naples that week.
What's newAmalfi's Capodanno Bizantino, the town's annual medieval reenactment of the Maritime Republic, runs 31 August to 2 September 2026 with a historical procession to Atrani and a closing concert by Arisa in Piazza Duomo. Here's the 2026 programme and how it fits into a Costiera Amalfitana trip.
What's newPompeii's Archaeological Park runs Ecstatic Pompeii, a series of evening theatre performances on the myth of Dionysus, every Friday and Saturday from 28 August to 26 September 2026 across five Vesuvius-area sites. Tickets cost €7 and go on sale 17 August — here's where to see it and how to plan around the park's evening opening hours.
What's newReggia di Caserta hosts 'Il Panda siamo noi', a WWF 60th-anniversary photo exhibition running in the palace's English Garden through 31 August 2026 — free with the regular admission ticket. Here's where to find it and why it's worth the detour on a Caserta day trip.
What's neweasyJet began flying direct between Naples and Liverpool on 3 August 2026, twice weekly on Mondays and Fridays — the airline's sixth UK route out of Capodichino. Here's the schedule, what it adds to Naples' flight network, and who it's actually useful for.
What's newNaples' metro runs on reduced hours through early September 2026: Line 1 loses its Friday and Saturday night extension from 7 August to 3 September, and Line 6 along the Chiaia seafront shuts as early as 13:50 from 10 to 23 August. Here's what changes, why, and how to route around it.
What's newThe Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte in Naples opened a major new Porcelain Gallery in June 2026 — 16 rooms, over 1,500 pieces from its roughly 7,000-strong Bourbon-era collection, and no separate ticket required. Here's what's inside, and how it differs from the museum's older porcelain room.
What's newCilento Fest returns to the borgo of Perito from 18 to 21 August 2026 for its fifth edition, with free screenings, over 120 films competing for the 'Cinema e Borghi' prize, and a tribute to director Ettore Scola. It's a different event from the earlier CilentArt Fest, despite sharing a host village.
What's newNaples' Piazza dei Martiri is getting a new address as La Caffettiera, the Chiaia café open since 1982, changes ownership and reopens as Coco Loco Caffetteria & Restaurant. The Paris-Montmartre-styled bistro is targeting an early September 2026 reopening after renovation.
What's newPompeii's Archaeological Park has a new permanent piece: a bronze reconstruction of the Canone di Policleto, unveiled 3 August 2026 and now part of the standard visitor route. It's included in the regular Pompeii ticket, with no extra fee or separate booking.
What's newThe Circumvesuviana line between Naples and Sorrento is suspended on the Barra–Torre del Greco stretch for the full operating day on Friday 7 and Saturday 8 August 2026. Anyone travelling between Naples and Sorrento, Pompei, or the Vesuvius towns on those two days needs to plan around replacement buses and a change of train at Torre Annunziata.
What's newNaples turns the sunken amphitheatre beside Napoli Centrale station into a free open-air cinema from 26 August to 4 September 2026, with ten evenings of films by and about the city. Napoli Mon Amour pairs screenings from directors like Paolo Sorrentino and Matteo Garrone with post-film talks and guests including director Mario Martone.
What's newNaples' Capodimonte Museum is hosting Canto Napoli, conceptual artist Emilio Isgrò's tribute to Neapolitan song, through 29 September 2026. The show — twenty-five erased sheet-music scores plus three sculptural instruments in rooms 81, 83 and 84 — is included in the regular museum ticket, with no separate booking required.
What's newCapri's Blue Grotto marks its bicentennial on 17 August 2026, two hundred years since the German painter August Kopisch rowed inside and brought it to European fame. The Certosa di San Giacomo is marking the anniversary with Il mito di Capri, an exhibition of paintings, drawings and artifacts running through 18 October 2026, included in the museum's standard entry ticket.
What's newNaples' Funicolare Centrale, the fastest link between Via Toledo and Vomero, closed on 1 August 2026 for a roughly ten-month overhaul — the first in twenty years. Here's the replacement shuttle route, which other funiculars and metro stations are also closed this August, and how to get up to Vomero in the meantime.
What's newPalazzo Petrucci, the Michelin-starred Naples restaurant group, opened a new pizzeria called Cucina Lievitata at Via Posillipo 16C around 20 July 2026. Pizzas run €6-10, the terrace looks straight at Vesuvius and Capri, and here's what to know before booking.
What's newFederico Guardascione, the Vomero pizzeria known as Il Colmo del Pizzaiolo, opened a second location on Naples' seafront at Via Nazario Sauro 21 on 15 July 2026. Here's what's on the menu, and why it's worth folding into a waterfront evening in Naples.
What's newA partial solar eclipse crosses Naples at sunset on 12 August 2026, covering roughly 36-46% of the sun with a peak around 20:00-20:20. Here's the timing, why the view depends entirely on where you're standing, and the seafront spots with the clearest line to the west.
What's newThe Reggia di Caserta, Italy's answer to Versailles, opens the Real Bosco and Giardino Inglese at 4:30am on 29 August 2026 for the second and final Alba alla Reggia of the summer. Tickets run €10–18, and the Royal Apartments open separately at the usual 8:30am — here's how to plan a sunrise visit.
What's newCilentart Fest returns for its sixth edition from 1 to 12 August 2026, spreading theatre, concerts, circus and dance across eight Cilento towns, from coastal Agropoli to inland Pollica and Gioi. Here's which towns take part, the headline acts, and how to plan a trip around a festival with no single fixed venue.
What's newMinori, the quiet Amalfi Coast town between Maiori and Ravello, has opened Arena del Mare, a new beachfront venue running concerts, theatre, comedy and dance through August 2026. The season closes on 26 August with the 15th edition of Minori in White — here's the program and how to reach it.
What's newMHARE, a new restaurant, bistrot and cocktail bar at Via Sella Orta 10/A in Capri, opened on 4 July 2026 in the space that used to hold É Divino. Here's what the concept is, what's distinctive about the food, and how to book a table for this summer.
What's newCastello di Baia, the fortress housing the Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei near Naples, opens late every Saturday from 6 June to 29 August 2026, until 22:00. Here's the schedule, the €5 ticket, and how to reach it from Naples for an evening that beats the usual centro storico crowd.
What's newPompeii's archaeological park hosts Philip Colbert's Pop Mythology from 27 July to 30 November 2026, spreading over 30 pop-art sculptures across the main site plus Boscoreale, Oplontis, and four more locations. Here's what the show is, where to find each piece, and how to fold it into a visit.
What's newNaples' Vomero museums — Castel Sant'Elmo, the Certosa di San Martino, and Villa Floridiana — added 27 hours of opening time a week from 1 July 2026. Here's the new timetable, the closing day, and what it means for planning a hilltop afternoon above the bay.
What's newAgerola, the mountain town above the Amalfi Coast, holds its 46th Fiordilatte Fiordifesta from 1 to 4 August 2026 — four free evenings of local cheese, live music, and a Slow Food talk on the fiordilatte that supplies restaurants across the coast.
What's newNaples' Maschio Angioino castle is hosting "Cattivi pensieri," the first Italian exhibition dedicated to underground comics legend Robert Crumb, open through 31 August 2026. Here's what's on display, what it costs, and how to fit it into a centro storico visit.
What's newSalerno's Costa d'Amalfi Airport has added four new Volotea routes in 2026 — Nantes and Cagliari from July, Catania and Verona from September. Here's exactly which days each one flies, what the shuttle into Salerno costs, and how to get onward to Amalfi or Positano.
What's newNaples' Museo Archeologico Nazionale (MANN) stays open until 23:30 for eight evenings this September and October 2026, pairing its ancient galleries with live performance, DJ sets and multimedia art under the name MANNight. Here's the full calendar, ticket price, and what actually happens on the night.
What's newThe Circumvesuviana's Naples–Sorrento line — the train most visitors use for Pompeii, Herculaneum and Sorrento — is getting more frequent departures from October 2026, as Campania's transport authority EAV rolls out new trains. Here's what's changing, when, and what it means for day-trip planning.
What's newSelf-driving the Amalfi Coast in August or September 2026? The SS163 between Vietri sul Mare and Positano now enforces odd-even licence plate restrictions daily, not just on weekends. Here's exactly how the rule works, who's exempt, and what it means if you're renting a car.
What's newNaples turns sky-blue on 1 August 2026 for Napoli 100, a free centenary celebration for SSC Napoli running from Piazza Carità to Piazza del Plebiscito. Here's the exact schedule, how to register for a spot at the Plebiscito, and where else in the city to watch for free.
What's newCastello Vassallo, a centuries-old fortified residence in Stella Cilento near Agropoli, reopened to the public on 4 July 2026 after a full restoration — now a small museum, an event venue, and a relais. Here's what's inside and how to visit.
What's newRavello's cliffside festival is back for its 74th edition, running 4 July to 5 September 2026 at Villa Rufolo, this year paired with a William Kentridge exhibition included in the villa's admission. Here's what's actually on, what it costs, and when to book.
CultureThe first of a running monthly list: what actually changed in Naples this July — a new Michelin star, a new address from the 50 Kalò group, and the first firm dates for November's Capodichino runway closure — checked against local press rather than press releases.
What's newAurea Maris brings fourteen evenings of theatre, music, jazz and dance to the open-air Teatro Alfonso Gatto in Conca dei Marini, running through 27 September 2026. Here is what to expect from the Amalfi Coast's calmer open-air theatre season, and how to plan an evening around it.
What's newUmberto a Mare in Forio has won its first Michelin star in the 2026 guide, and the Festa a Mare at the Scogli di Sant'Anna returns to Ischia on 26 July 2026 with decorated boats below the Aragonese Castle. Here are the dates, what to expect, and why the Festa di Sant'Alessandro on 26 August is worth planning around too.
What's newThe Sagra del Mare in Procida runs through 6 August 2026: eleven days of concerts, food stalls, and the island's traditional election of the 'Graziella' on 1 August. Here is when the festival happens, whether you need tickets, and how to plan a visit to Procida in August 2026.
What's newEstate a Napoli 2026, the city's official summer programme, brings more than eighty free or low-cost events to Naples between July and September. Here is what to expect around Ferragosto — free concerts on the Lungomare and in Piazza del Plebiscito, the Notte della Tammorra, and Calici di Stelle wine tastings in the centro storico.
What's newA practical guide to Naples exhibitions in summer 2026: Shepard Fairey's OBEY: Power to the Peaceful at Gallerie d'Italia (until 6 September) and Emilio Isgrò's Canto Napoli at Capodimonte (until 29 September). Plus extended summer hours at the Vomero museums and why the Alberto Biasi show at Palazzo Reale cannot wait until August.
What's newLooking for new restaurants in Naples in 2026? Casa 50, the 50 Kalò group's first full restaurant, has opened at Piazza Sannazaro, and seafood cook Giuseppe Scicchitano now has a second address on Via Nazario Sauro behind Santa Lucia — here is what to know before you book.
What's newIl Ristorante Alain Ducasse Napoli, on the ninth floor of the Romeo hotel, holds its first Michelin star in the 2026 guide — awarded in Parma in November and only now reaching local press. Here is what the star means, what chef Alessandro Lucassino cooks, and what to expect from prices if you are looking at Michelin star restaurants in Naples in 2026.
PracticalThere's no single right answer. The right transfer depends on your luggage, your group size, when you arrive, and where on the coast you're staying.
FoodYou eat your way through Naples or you don't really visit it. Five stops, three hours, two pockets full of paper cones.
CitiesDay-trip Capri is the famous awful experience. Overnight Capri is what people who fall in love with the island actually visit.
FoodEvery Neapolitan family will tell you a different pizzeria is the only one. Here is the honest, less-arguing version.
OutdoorsThe 'Path of the Gods' is a 7.8km cliffside trail above Positano. Done correctly — early morning, downhill direction, sturdy shoes — it's the highlight of a Coast trip.
CultureVesuvius buried Herculaneum in pyroclastic mud rather than ash — preserving wood, fabric, even food. It's the more intimate site, and you can do it in three hours.
ItinerariesHow a local plans a long weekend in the centro storico — which churches, which alleys, which sfogliatelle, and which two streets to skip on a Saturday night.
PracticalThe Circumvesuviana is the only way most travellers will see Pompei or Sorrento. It's fine — provided you know the rules.
ItinerariesMost visitors do Ravello as a day trip from Amalfi. Sleep one night and the village is yours from 18:00 to 10:00 the next morning.
CultureThe Neapolitan coffee ritual takes ninety seconds and changes how you measure days. A short guide to doing it correctly.
PracticalOnce you understand which company runs which route, the boats are the best way to get anywhere. Here's the map.
OutdoorsSkip the big cattle-boat tours. Hire a 6-person gozzo from Marina Grande for €350 split four ways. It's the right way to see Capri.
CitiesAtrani is the smallest comune on the coast. Same beach, same cliffs, one tenth of the people. Stay for dinner.
ItinerariesSalerno, Vietri, Ravello, Amalfi, Positano — five days, no rental car, and a real plan for the SS163 traffic that ruins most first trips.
PracticalThere's no bad time to visit Campania, but there's a wrong time for what you want to do. Match the month to your trip.
OutdoorsIschia sits on an active volcanic system. Its thermal gardens — vast clusters of mineral pools at different temperatures — are the island's defining experience.
CultureForty metres below the centro storico runs a second city — Greek, Roman, Bourbon, wartime. Three of its tunnels are open and worth your morning.
OutdoorsVesuvius is an active volcano you can walk into the crater of. Book the morning slot — by 13:00 the cloud cover rolls in and the view is gone.
CultureEvery yellow-and-blue ceramic plate you've seen in a coast restaurant came from Vietri. Six minutes by bus from Salerno — the workshops are open to visitors.
ItinerariesNaples and the Coast are excellent with kids if you base smart and pace slow. Here's a week that works.
ItinerariesSpaccanapoli is two kilometres of unchanged Greek-Roman grid. Walk it from Via Pasquale Scura to Via San Biagio dei Librai with one church, one chapel, and one pastry.
FoodA bottle of real Sorrento limoncello has three ingredients: Sfusato lemons, alcohol, sugar. If yours has 'natural lemon flavour' it's industrial.
CitiesWhen the centro storico becomes too much, Neapolitans take the Funicolare Centrale up to the Vomero. So should you.
ItinerariesSkip Positano on a weekend. Sleep in Ravello or Praiano, eat one big meal at Don Alfonso, walk the Path of the Gods at sunrise.
FoodColatura is the amber liquor pressed from anchovies fermented in oak barrels for 18 months. A few drops over spaghetti and you understand why the Romans paid more for it than for wine.
CitiesSant'Angelo is the most photogenic corner of Ischia and the only village on the island where the cars stop at the edge of town.
CitiesThe coach tours from Rome land at 10:30. Beat them by 90 minutes from Porta Marina and you'll get the Villa dei Misteri to yourself.
ItinerariesThe Naples night moves between three quarters. Done in this order, you taste the whole city in five hours.
FoodSkip the Tuscan list at dinner. Order a Falanghina del Sannio or a Taurasi Aglianico — younger sommeliers in Naples will respect you.
CitiesPraiano was the original Coast hideout for Neapolitan aristocrats. Now it's the smart base for anyone who's done Positano twice.
PracticalNaples is one of the few Italian regions where a rental car costs you time. The public transport network covers everywhere you'd actually want to go.
CultureOn any given day there are 60 workshops carving terracotta figures of the Pope, Maradona, and last week's politicians. It's earnest folk art and you should buy one.
OutdoorsProcida is small enough to walk end-to-end. The right route hits the historic centre, the pastel fishing harbour, and the wide sandy beach in one morning.
ItinerariesNaples is more kid-friendly than its reputation suggests. The trick is to swap museum hours for hands-on hours.
OutdoorsFurore isn't really a town — it's a fjord between Praiano and Conca dei Marini. The bridge is the photo; the beach beneath is the swim.
FoodMozzarella di bufala DOP is made in the Sele plain (Salerno) and the Mazzoni (Caserta). Stop at a caseificio on the way to the coast — it's a different cheese from the one you've had at home.
OutdoorsNaples' seafront went car-free in 2012 and never looked back. The 45-minute walk is the city's collective evening ritual.
PracticalThe Amalfi coastal road was carved into the cliff in the 19th century for ox carts. The driving rules haven't fully caught up to modern SUVs.
PracticalNaples has rough pavements, narrow alleys, and not much by way of changing tables. With a sling, no car, and a sense of humour, it's entirely doable.
PracticalBetween June and September, the ferry beats the car on every measure except 'we already paid for the rental'. Plan accordingly.
FoodIf a restaurant in Campania can't get vongole right, it can't get anything right. The dish reveals the kitchen.
PracticalThe Coast is one of the most expensive corners of Italy, but it has a much cheaper second layer if you know where to look.
FoodNaples invented half the Italian pastry canon. Start here, in the right places.
OutdoorsVivara was a private hunting reserve, then a research station, then abandoned. Reopened in 2018 for guided visits on weekends.
CitiesIf you want to see everything without changing hotels, Sorrento is the answer. The trade-off: the town itself is less interesting than where you go from it.
CultureNaples shuts down for San Gennaro three times a year — and the September feast is the one to be in town for.
CitiesApril and October on Procida feel like a different island — fishermen at dawn, half-empty trattorie, and Marina Corricella to yourself for an evening passeggiata.
CultureThe Bourbon royal palace at Caserta is 30 minutes from Naples by train and bigger than Versailles. Plan a full day — half the visitors only see the front rooms.
CitiesCapri town is the boutiques and the Piazzetta. Anacapri is the quiet one with Villa San Michele and Monte Solaro. The choice is character-driven.
CultureDecember in Naples is loud, crowded, and the best time to feel the city's identity. Plan to stay through the 6th of January.
FoodThe terraced groves of the Amalfi Coast grow a lemon so distinctive it has its own IGP. Eat it in everything you can while you're here.
FoodPastiera is the dessert that defines the Neapolitan year. Every nonna's recipe is the only correct one. Try four.
CultureThe MANN holds the Pompeii frescoes you can't see in Pompeii anymore, plus the Farnese collection. Three hours, four rooms, and you've done the highlights.
OutdoorsSkip the Faraglioni side for an afternoon. The lighthouse at Punta Carena and the rocky cove below it are Capri at its rawest.
CultureIf you can pick when to visit, pick May. The city's hidden architectural archive opens for a month and Neapolitans queue alongside the tourists.
FoodNaples gelato is generally excellent and occasionally world-class. A short list of where to spend the €3.50.
CultureMost tourists never make it to Capodimonte. They should. It's a 20-minute bus from the centro storico and houses a top-three Italian collection.
FoodSix mornings a week, the catch from the Gulf lands on Via Sopramuro. By 9:30 it's gone to the city's restaurants. Go at 7am, bring cash, ask before photographing.
CitiesIf your group includes someone who can't do stairs, Minori and Maiori are your villages. Flat, accessible, working — and as pretty as anywhere on the coast.
CitiesThe Cilento starts an hour south of Salerno and runs for 100km. The temples at Paestum are first; then the empty Mediterranean coast for the rest of the week.
CitiesVia Toledo is the only big shopping street in Naples and the daily passeggiata of the entire centre. Walk it once, look up at the buildings.
CitiesSalerno isn't pretty in the postcard sense, but it's a real city — and one night here at the start of a coast trip is the best primer you can get.
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