Food
A walking street-food map of Naples
Cuoppo, pizza fritta, sfogliatella, taralli — the route from the Quartieri to Forcella in five stops.
Start fried
Begin at Friggitoria Vomero in the morning — no, not in Vomero, the original is on Via Toledo. Order a cuoppo: paper cone of crocchè (potato), arancini, zeppoline, and the small mozzarella in carrozza. Eat standing.
Then walk into the Quartieri Spagnoli and find Pizza a Portafoglio Sorbillo. The 'wallet' is a margherita folded into quarters and eaten with your hands while walking. The dough is the point; everything else supports it.
Finish sweet
Down toward Spaccanapoli stop at Scaturchio for a sfogliatella riccia — crisp, layered, still warm. The lemon-scented ricotta inside should hiss when you crack the first layer.
End at Taralleria Esposito in the Pignasecca market. Buy a paper bag of taralli 'nzogna e pepe — lard, pepper, almonds — and walk them home for the next morning's espresso.
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The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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