Food
Spaghetti alle vongole — the dish Naples invented
Five ingredients, twelve minutes, and the test of every coast restaurant.
What to look for on the plate
The vongole should be veraci (true Mediterranean clams), not the cheaper philippine variety. They should be open, not partially closed. The sauce should cling to the pasta without being soupy.
Order it in bianco (no tomato). Bread on the side to soak the juice. Pair with a Falanghina. No cheese on top — that's a rule.
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The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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