Practical
Naples with a baby or toddler
Strollers vs slings, where to change nappies, the city's least kid-hostile streets.
The pragmatic notes
Use a sling or carrier in the centro storico — strollers fight cobblestones and steps. Switch to the stroller on the lungomare (flat, pedestrian) and at Vomero.
Best changing tables: Galleria Umberto I (basement), the museum cafés (MANN, Capodimonte), the McDonald's at Via Toledo (don't judge).
Restaurants warm bottles without asking. High chairs are common in trattorias. Order pizza marinara — toddlers eat it.
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The beating heart of Southern Italy — three millennia of layered history, the world's pizza capital, and a UNESCO old town that hums from dawn to midnight.
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